sub and amp setup

[zoomn_e30]

hey guys, i have an idea but i have no idea how to do it, lol. i have a 500w peak 12" subwoofer.. and 450w peak amplifier. i just bought them and they're still in the box. i know how to hook it up and everything, but this idea i have.. im not exactly sure how to have it done. Idea: to have the amp and sub show THROUGH the floor just barely so that there's still room to put things in it. here's a couple links to show you what i mean. for those of you sound experts, please give me some detailed instructions how to do this. thanks a lot guys. (you have to copy the link and paste it in ur browser, it wont work if you click on it directly.. sorry about that guys)

www.wycoco.fcpages.com/subz.JPG
www.wycoco.fcpages.com/subzz.jpg
www.wycoco.fcpages.com/idea.bmp

 

[jszar]

well, there is a lot involved. personally, IMO, if you're new to this sort of thing, i am not so sure you want to start off on your bmw. also, what brand and model is the equipment you are using? lets start there and make sure you've got something worth putting all this time into. the fact that you're products say the peak power rather than the rms power already leaves me skeptical. fyi, max/peak power means almost nothing in the audio realm. it is a technical detail that you should pay NO attention to, rather look at the RMS, or Continuous power rating, becasue thats what has to match with your amp and sub. if they dont, time to get something that does. mis matching power ratings can destroy your subs and or amp. just because something is 200 watts, doesnt mean that it all breaks down into the amps 200 watt output. you also have to pay attention to the ohms, and the load it presents to the amplifier. it gets really confusing, and i'll help, but lets get the technical stuff out of the way first, and then i can help you with your idea, which i like a lot by the way. if i cant help you, i know another forum you can go to where you will definetly find your answers.

 

[Ghost]

look at the RMS, or Continuous power rating, becasue thats what has to match with your amp and sub. if they dont, time to get something that does. mis matching power ratings can destroy your subs and or amp.

True that.

Also look at how much distortion the amp is putting out. The louder it goes the more you’ll hear. Another idea you might want do is have the speakers stand upright in a normal position. Measure the width and height of you trunk so you know how far out you have to go. That way you can still use some of your trunk. You can even attach the amp on top (may get too hot) or next to the twelve. Then you can display both. Whether going to a shop or making the box yourself always allow for the thickness of the wood. I gave the shop my dimensions when I had a box made and they matched them to the interior dimensions of the box and it was a little bit too wide. If the box is ported you can also have the ports coming through the rear deck.

 

[zoomn_e30]

thanks for the info.. pls everyone, leave ur comments and what not so i'll learn about this..

 

[SilverBMW323i]

I agree with jszar. As for the "peak power" he is correct. Usually it is companies that try to compet with the majors that sell you on that type of spec. Also, when buying things don't forget the little thing calle Ohm's law. P=VI. P is power in Watts. V is voltage of system (~13 when you car is running). and I the current consumed. If it is a 450W amp then is will have to have a 35 amp fuse. P/V = I. 450/13=34.6 Amps.
And if it really draws that much current make sure you get hook-up wire that will carry the current. You can make smoke out of your car is you don't watch what you are doing!

 

[adrean8j]

You can do a set up like mine if you want to(click on link at the bottom and look on page 2)
but you will sacrifice a little trunk space. I still have room to go shopping or put my soccer cleats and bag in the back! Golf clubs have to go in the back seat though!!!