One last clutch question - What should I replace in addition?

epj3

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#1
In addition to all new shifter linkage hardware... and the stuff listed below (I'm only ordering the parts from a single supplier (Bavauto or Pelican parts unless someone else knows of a place that is reliable and has better prices.)

The Clutch kit from bavauto ($230) includes:

-Sachs OEM Clutch kit (Clutch disc, pressure plate, throwout bearing)
-Rear Engine Seal
-Clutch alignment too
-Pilot Bearing
-All transmission seals needed
-Exhaust gaskets (manifold -> downpipe)
-Pivot Pin

OR

Pelican parts kit ($262) includes:

* Three piece Sachs clutch kit (Clutch disc, pressure plate, throwout bearing)
* New flywheel and pressure plate bolts
* New flywheel and transmission mainshaft seals
* New selector rod seal
* New exhaust gaskets
* New pilot bearing
* New release bearing spring clip
* New clutch pivot pin
* New slave cylinder
* New slave cylinder hose


I'm reluctant to order from pelican parts beucase I need these parts by the weekend of the 16th (and MrFerg had problems with pelican parts...). I've always trusted bavauto.

Is it worthwhile to replace the slave cylinder? It was replaced about a year ago, before I bought the car and I'm super tight on money right now - so if the slave goes, I can replace that after the fact.
 
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#2
I wouldn't replace the slave. It's easy enough to replace by itself it it craps out in the future. You might consider ordering a new clutch release fork as well. If your bearing is shot, then the fork might be torn up. It would suck if you got everything apart and found out that the fork is torn up and then didn't have it. It's cheap, and you could always return it if you didn't need it.
 

epj3

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#3
jrt67ss350 said:
I wouldn't replace the slave. It's easy enough to replace by itself it it craps out in the future. You might consider ordering a new clutch release fork as well. If your bearing is shot, then the fork might be torn up. It would suck if you got everything apart and found out that the fork is torn up and then didn't have it. It's cheap, and you could always return it if you didn't need it.
Yup $10 for the fork.

Looks like this clutch job will cost me about $260 total (includes the fluid changes [hihi]).

I also have to rent the pilot bearing puller from autozone for $40 (completely refundable when its returned)... unless anyone here in central PA has one I could borrow.. I would definitely appreciate it.
 
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#4
honestly i had nothing but problems trying to bleed my new slave cylinder. I think i still have a bubble in it because i am having trouble getting my car in 1st second and reverse when stopped. I really wouldn't mess with that thing unless You have to. I made that mistake already. Its a pain but i guess you can learn a lot form replacing it.

As far as that pilot bearing goes... Instead of getting a puller, (I didn't know where to get one) i did this:

Get a long bolt that has a hex head on it just small enough to make it through the pilot bearing. Once the bolt head is behind the bearing, slide a nail in beside the bolt head so that the bolt head cannot come back out.

Get a piece of metal with a hole in it for the bolt to go through and put a nut on the bolt on the other side of the metal. The piece of metal should rest against something and when you turn the nut it will pull on the bolt pulling the pilot bearing out.

The bolt head cannot turn because the nail prevents it from turning thus has nowhere else to go other than to pull out the bearing.

You can probably find these things around the house. I did, it was free and it worked for me.

I posted this on roadfly as well. I really don't know if that explains what to do well enough. It may be hard to picture. But hopefully it helps! Enjoy the project.
 
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#5
Check your ujoints while you have the drive shaft out. Don't forget to grease everything. I know you are thinking what kind of idiot forgets, but i did cause i got excited about finishing something else and threw the tranny back in and completely forgot to grease some stuff. But pulling the tranny the second time is a LOT easier than the first.
 

epj3

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#6
mjbst111 said:
Check your ujoints while you have the drive shaft out. Don't forget to grease everything. I know you are thinking what kind of idiot forgets, but i did cause i got excited about finishing something else and threw the tranny back in and completely forgot to grease some stuff. But pulling the tranny the second time is a LOT easier than the first.
I did the CSB and guibo (flex disc) a few months ago. That stuff is all good [;)]

Thanks for the tips mjbst111. Should save me a few bucks.
 
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#8
epj3 said:
I did the CSB and guibo (flex disc) a few months ago. That stuff is all good [;)]

Thanks for the tips mjbst111. Should save me a few bucks.
no poblem, hope it all goes smoothly.

You may already know this already but to change the output shaft seal on the tranny you need a thin walled 30mm socket. A BMW dealership let me borrow thiers as it is really hard to find a socket with a thin enough wall. They are mad expensive too. You may have dealt with this before?

That is what delayed My clutch job a week. Finding a friggin socket. Luckily there's like 3 dealers around me. Only one of them let me borrow it.
 
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#9
tranny fluid is good to change too.

look at this, everyone posting are E30 people. why not post this in the correct forum? you dont like the e30 people?
 

epj3

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#10
xLibelle said:
tranny fluid is good to change too.

look at this, everyone posting are E30 people. why not post this in the correct forum? you dont like the e30 people?
Well, it was supposed to be for anyone with clutch experience... but figures, again... only the e30 people have the REAL useful answers [:)] [:)]

I'm not sure about that 30mm thin walled socket... It's on bavauto but $35?!?!? Damn!! I can't afford that [B)]

Does anyone have one they can mail to me??? I'll pay shipping and i'll sell you my soul if it keeps me from having to buy one. I'm a despirate and poor college student...hehe.
 
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#11
uhh, whats the socket for again?
wait a tic - i ...uhhh ..no. only problems i had was when i was trying to get the auto's flywheel out. omg what a pain! (i think i did it in the wrong order anyway)
 

epj3

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#12
xLibelle said:
uhh, whats the socket for again?
wait a tic - i ...uhhh ..no. only problems i had was when i was trying to get the auto's flywheel out. omg what a pain! (i think i did it in the wrong order anyway)
HELP you guys have me confused. I see nothing in bently about a 30mm socket.
 
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#13
it's only if you are changing your output shaft seal in the back of the transmission.

The one right behind the flange that the guibo connects to. It has to be a deep socket and thin walled. Can't use an impact socket.

You said you were going to change all the seals on your transmission so I wanted to let you know what you needed before the day. The bentley does speak of such sockets somewhere. Try going to a dealer and chit chat with sommeone for a bit. They may let you borrow it if you are desperate enough. I certainly couldn't afford one... Snap-on i think has one for a bit cheaper but they are a pain to deal with.
 


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