Just thought someone might be interested
- Thread starter tool fan
- Start date
My mustang brakes are squeeling bad (that is how I found these) I was thinking about getting some cross drilled and slotted rotors and new pads, any input on the whys or why nots on the rotors
http://cgi.ebay.com/FORD-MUSTANG-99-04-D-DRILLED-SLOTTED-BRAKE-ROTORS-PADS_W0QQitemZ8047301054QQcategoryZ33564QQcmdZViewItem
These are what i am looking at
http://cgi.ebay.com/FORD-MUSTANG-99-04-D-DRILLED-SLOTTED-BRAKE-ROTORS-PADS_W0QQitemZ8047301054QQcategoryZ33564QQcmdZViewItem
These are what i am looking at
Get slotted rotors if you want, but cross drilled crack and have little if any benefit other than looks. Less surface area to dissipate heat, and I doubt the mustang has brake cooling that would take advantage of any kind of cross drilling. All I know is my Pagid red's stopped the e30 faster than jesus.
In all my research I found the same answers, cross drilled are prone to cracking and warping due to less surface area. The application for cross drilled is track where rotors are frequently replaced! I also found that slotted is over kill as most pad materials now does not put off enough gasses to matter, however they can be beneficial in wet applications and will not hurt anything. Go slotted or Frozen Rotors.
This is my "Holy Grail" of brake facts: Brake Pulp Fiction
Page 4 specifically discusses drilled and slotted rotors.
Basically, drilled rotors are wrong for almost all applications, slotted is OK but really doesn't provide any real benefits unless you are racing and using matched parts (rotors/calipers/pads/tires) that work as a braking system.
http://www.scirocco.org/faq/brakes/pulpfriction/pfpage4.html
Page 4 specifically discusses drilled and slotted rotors.
Basically, drilled rotors are wrong for almost all applications, slotted is OK but really doesn't provide any real benefits unless you are racing and using matched parts (rotors/calipers/pads/tires) that work as a braking system.
http://www.scirocco.org/faq/brakes/pulpfriction/pfpage4.html
That is an intersting read, but it was published in 1991, don't you think that material advancements and technology in 15 years might make some of the material data obsolete??? I just can't imagine that some of these Brembo brake systems that cost 4-6k could just be BS. I am dumb when it comes to math and techno stuff, but I can't believe that it is all just hype.
Ok, for asthetic purposes say I like the Drilled and slotted rotors, I am not a street racer and am not planning on racing type braking, will I really have to worry to much about these crapping out on me???? Maybe the occasional severe hard braking at high speed due to some idiot cutting me off onthe autobahn.
Here is some more information on Rotors:
"For many years most racing rotors were drilled. There were two reasons -
the holes gave the "fireband" boundary layer of gasses and particulate
matter someplace to go and the edges of the holes gave the pad a better
"bite".
Unfortunately the drilled holes also reduced the thermal capacity of the
discs and served as very effective "stress raisers" significantly
decreasing disc life. Improvements in friction materials have pretty
much made the drilled rotor a thing of the past in racing. Most racing
rotors currently feature a series of tangential slots or channels that
serve the same purpose without the attendant disadvantages.
the process of drilling rotors and slotting rotors was done for 1 reason
and 1 reason only it is to disipate the gases that build up between the
pad and the rotor which occurs under extreme heat ( when braking very
aggressively like on a road course) and it has absolutely nothing to do
with heat disipation. the only way to transfer more heat away is by
using a larger heat sink which means use of a larger rotor whether in
diameter or thickness. Since the caliper will only allow for a certain
rotor thickness that solution is not very applicable because, if you are
changing tha caliper opening width you might as well get a larger rotor
diameter at that time"
FYI
"For many years most racing rotors were drilled. There were two reasons -
the holes gave the "fireband" boundary layer of gasses and particulate
matter someplace to go and the edges of the holes gave the pad a better
"bite".
Unfortunately the drilled holes also reduced the thermal capacity of the
discs and served as very effective "stress raisers" significantly
decreasing disc life. Improvements in friction materials have pretty
much made the drilled rotor a thing of the past in racing. Most racing
rotors currently feature a series of tangential slots or channels that
serve the same purpose without the attendant disadvantages.
the process of drilling rotors and slotting rotors was done for 1 reason
and 1 reason only it is to disipate the gases that build up between the
pad and the rotor which occurs under extreme heat ( when braking very
aggressively like on a road course) and it has absolutely nothing to do
with heat disipation. the only way to transfer more heat away is by
using a larger heat sink which means use of a larger rotor whether in
diameter or thickness. Since the caliper will only allow for a certain
rotor thickness that solution is not very applicable because, if you are
changing tha caliper opening width you might as well get a larger rotor
diameter at that time"
FYI