In process of replacing clutch on e30... need help!! As soon as possible!!

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epj3

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I'm having problems getting to these 4 (2 torx, 2 hex) bolts. I have the engine support off so the engine/tranny is leaning backwards the way that was reccomended.


Any hints? My friend and I (both fairly skilled mechanically) have messed around with wobble extensions for the past 2 hours.

I decided that half the extensions were very bad, harbor freight quality. I ran to sears and bought this...

-3 different sized wobble extensions (Have used these before, just needed MORE)
-3-piece Socket cap set - basically one end has the 3/8" end with the ball bearing that a socket wrench would have - and the other end (they are half an inch tall) is a 9/16-in hex head.
-9/16-in U-joint flex socket. Bascially its a U-joint but it has the 9/16" end so you dont have to use a socket AND then a U joint.

The problem I've had with u-joints that fit into the socket, is they tend to make the socket "curl off" the nut/bolt.
 
jrt67ss350

jrt67ss350

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Well, I would think you would probably need something bigger than a 9/16" drive to get these things out. I would think you'd need a 1/2" drive. However, I imagine that the clearance is causing you problems.

The guy that did my clutch had to lower the front subframe (and hence, the engine) to get more room back there.

The sockets want to curl off of the bolts because those bolts are in there damn tight. Have you had your friend try to hold the sockets on the bolts from above while you try to loosen them?

I don't know what else to tell you - they are a bitch.
 
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epj3

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jrt67ss350 said:
Well, I would think you would probably need something bigger than a 9/16" drive to get these things out. I would think you'd need a 1/2" drive. However, I imagine that the clearance is causing you problems.

The guy that did my clutch had to lower the front subframe (and hence, the engine) to get more room back there.

The sockets want to curl off of the bolts because those bolts are in there damn tight. Have you had your friend try to hold the sockets on the bolts from above while you try to loosen them?

I don't know what else to tell you - they are a bitch.
Click to expand...
Yea, I took a picture of me giving a torx bolt the bird... but i won't post it to keep this thread clean [:p]
 
Kirby

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I know what you are going thru - had the same problem with an S10 blazer, this is a common pain in the a$$. You have 2 choices:

1. Keep working at it until you get them loose by determination. Can you work any of them from the top with a box end wrench?

2. Drastic, but some have done it - DRILL HOLES in the firewall (at least for the top bolts) to get a good straight on grip.
 
jrt67ss350

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Kirby said:
I know what you are going thru - had the same problem with an S10 blazer, this is a common pain in the a$$. You have 2 choices:

1. Keep working at it until you get them loose by determination. Can you work any of them from the top with a box end wrench?

2. Drastic, but some have done it - DRILL HOLES in the firewall (at least for the top bolts) to get a good straight on grip.
Click to expand...
Unfortunately, neither of these methods will work on an E30, Kirby. The bolts are female torx bolts, so you can't use a wrench on them. There wouldn't be room or access from above anyways. Drilling a hole in the firewall wouldn't really be worth it because you'd have to take the entire A/C/heater unit out of the car to get to the firewall. That involves removing the entire dash. And, I'm not even sure you'd be able to get straight on at the bolts from inside the car anyways. It'd be much less work to just drop the front subframe.
 
Kirby

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jrt67ss350 said:
Unfortunately, neither of these methods will work on an E30, Kirby. The bolts are female torx bolts, so you can't use a wrench on them. There wouldn't be room or access from above anyways. Drilling a hole in the firewall wouldn't really be worth it because you'd have to take the entire A/C/heater unit out of the car to get to the firewall. That involves removing the entire dash. And, I'm not even sure you'd be able to get straight on at the bolts from inside the car anyways. It'd be much less work to just drop the front subframe.
Click to expand...

OK, yeah, my comments are coming from a "generic" viewpoint and no specific knowledge of the E30.

As you know, the problem here is that the drive train was dropped in the chassis and then the body was dropped on top, so the factory never had to deal with this crap.....
 
jrt67ss350

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Kirby said:
As you know, the problem here is that the drive train was dropped in the chassis and then the body was dropped on top, so the factory never had to deal with this crap.....
Click to expand...
Yep, and the factory used torx bolts so that they could get them exceptionally tight and make it even harder to remove them. [B)]
 
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epj3

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My roommate who is one of those kids who acts like he knows his stuff about cars... said something about how stupid it is that it isn't easy to change. I reminded him bmw's arent ment to be taken apart - they are made to stay together.

Though, that's no excuse for putting an odd and easily strippable bolt onto the bellhousing which is snug against the firewall...hehe.
 
jrt67ss350

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It definitely wasn't designed with replacement in mind. Most bellhousing-firewall relationships aren't designed for easy removal of the transmission (except in old cars), as Kirby alluded to.

Let's see how easy it would be to remove and replace the transmission in his Lumina! [poke] Even with the pain in the butt torx bolts on the E30s, GM front-wheel drive vehicles require a ton more work to get that transmission out of there.
 
mjbst111

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the key to those bolts is in jacking up the front of the engine so that the transmission leans even further than it would on it's own without the mount. You will gain tons of access to the bolts. (I can't imagine it even possible to get at them without doing this) Use a peice of wood and jack under the oil pan. Just be careful not to damage the engine mounts.

Hope this helps even though its late. Or I hope you already have the job done and didn't need the help. Sucks that i'm telling you this monday when you are already finished with the project or cannot work on it because it is not the weekend now.
 
mjbst111

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nice! good work. How did you get the pilot bearing out?

Sorry i couldn't help earlier. REALLY slow dial up at home.

did you replace the rear transmission output seal?

I bet the car is like a dream now.
 
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