Friend can't get his wheels off on his new M Coupe

frolf

frolf

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well the problem is that BMW's (or at least mine) doesn't have studs. It has a hub type thing that your screw the lug bolts (not nuts) into. so if they are cross-threaded and hammered in, you are going to have to drill-tap them out, and then probably get an entirely new hub assembly unless effed up threads can be repaired or replaced.

thats just my $0.02, i don't have much experience with stuff like that.
 
B

Big Daddy

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And he mentions in his post, "usually when inserting bolts, you should twist it in with your hand to make sure the threads on the bolts are aligning correctly and THEN you use a tool to zap it in." I would never use an air tool to put my my wheels on. I hand tighten mine with a four-way spinner, then torque them.
 
Dinan55

Dinan55

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mrferg said:
He should try the BFB technique again, but with a Craftsman Impact socket, those things are tough!
Click to expand...
The socket that I was using was one of the Husky ones, some of the best. None of that Taiwanese crap... I tried a method that a friend taught me, I don't know if it's good or not but since we had no choice we did it anyway. What you do is you put the wrench on the bolt while the car is lifted so that the handle is facing to the right and is perfectly straight. Then, you take a long block of wood and make sure that one end is securely resting under the end of the wrench's handle and the other end is FIRMLY on the ground. After that you just very slowly lower the car and place all of the weight on the wrench, if you have a decent wrench the bolt should break before the wrench does. You're looking at about 3,000 lbs of torque, and it still didn't budge. I don’t know if the block of wood wasn't long enough or what, but nothing happened - that's when we decided that we shouldn't try that method because the wrench might fly off and break our faces or something. After that I tried to kind of lever the wrench in a counterclockwise direction by using a piece of wood placed below the handle and on one of the wheel's spokes, and that's when the socket broke.
 
E

epj3

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#10
Dinan55 said:
The socket that I was using was one of the Husky ones, some of the best. None of that Taiwanese crap... I tried a method that a friend taught me, I don't know if it's good or not but since we had no choice we did it anyway. What you do is you put the wrench on the bolt while the car is lifted so that the handle is facing to the right and is perfectly straight. Then, you take a long block of wood and make sure that one end is securely resting under the end of the wrench's handle and the other end is FIRMLY on the ground. After that you just very slowly lower the car and place all of the weight on the wrench, if you have a decent wrench the bolt should break before the wrench does. You're looking at about 3,000 lbs of torque, and it still didn't budge. I don’t know if the block of wood wasn't long enough or what, but nothing happened - that's when we decided that we shouldn't try that method because the wrench might fly off and break our faces or something. After that I tried to kind of lever the wrench in a counterclockwise direction by using a piece of wood placed below the handle and on one of the wheel's spokes, and that's when the socket broke.
Click to expand...
Go buy yourself some craftsmen tools, since they have a lifetime warranty (ie it breaks you take it in and get a new one). Get a 4' Breaker bar and about 5 feet of metal tube that fits over the end of the breaker bar. You now have about 8 feet of torque there, so you're talking about some 1600 ft-lb torque. (assuming you could put about 200 foot pounds on it using a normal socket wrench)

Have your buddy make sure it stays firmly on that bolt. Also spray a shitload of that bolt loosener stuff (it frees rusted bolts but it also frees hard to remove bolts). It wont harm the wheels either.


The problem with the wood block method is the suspension will compress so much that you'll never get the full weight needed. Just one wheel on a car like that cant be holding up any more than about 35% of the car's full weight. The suspension (since it's independent suspension) shouldnt allow the full load on that wheel anyways.
 
Dinan55

Dinan55

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epj3 said:
Go buy yourself some craftsmen tools, since they have a lifetime warranty (ie it breaks you take it in and get a new one). Get a 4' Breaker bar and about 5 feet of metal tube that fits over the end of the breaker bar. You now have about 8 feet of torque there, so you're talking about some 1600 ft-lb torque. (assuming you could put about 200 foot pounds on it using a normal socket wrench)

Have your buddy make sure it stays firmly on that bolt. Also spray a shitload of that bolt loosener stuff (it frees rusted bolts but it also frees hard to remove bolts). It wont harm the wheels either.


The problem with the wood block method is the suspension will compress so much that you'll never get the full weight needed. Just one wheel on a car like that cant be holding up any more than about 35% of the car's full weight. The suspension (since it's independent suspension) shouldnt allow the full load on that wheel anyways.
Click to expand...
Yea the Husky ones have lifetime warranty too, but I still can't believe it broke. I don't think that the back suspension is independent because the M Coupe's rear suspension is the same as the E30 M3's. This really sucks...
 
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