Car won't start

[selavia]

I know technically this belongs in the 5-Series forum, but I'm kind of hoping for the regulars at giving good advice to see this and chime in, and I think it'll get more traffic here. If moderators prefer it in the correct forum, tell me and I'll delete and repost it there. Here's the situation:

1997 528i

Steering hose connecting from resevoir to pump was leaking. The resevoir was cracked as well.

Went to replace it. Left the key in the ignition in ACC position. When the hose finally came in three days later, put the hose in, went to start the car, nothing.

Tried jump starting, it wouldn't crank / turn over.

Put in a new battery, nothing. Lights and all work, when I start it, I here gasoline going into the engine, but no crank, or turnover. Just silence.

What I'm thinking:

The resevoir is right above the alternator, maybe oil spilled into the alternator? Or maybe a wire got freyed or disconnected in the process of changing?

Any thoughts as to how to diagnosis or any independent diagnosis?

Thanks.

 

[Kirby]

That's weird. Highly unlikely that oil in the alternator would cause this.

Check the simple stuff first - I assume it is an automatic? Is it in Park or Neutral?

 

[Big Daddy]

Check the positive battery connection at the alternator, if this has come loose or off the car will not start.

 

[selavia]

Kirby, it is an automatic. It was in park. But I took it out of park and put it back in. Still no crank.

Dan, I checked it and it felt pretty solid, but there was leakage all around the rubber / boot for it, so tommorrow I'm going to take off all the alternator plugs, clean them up and see if that solves it.

Any other thoughts? I really do not want to have to tow it. Volt meter? some other cable?

What other simple stuff is there? What am I missing??

Thanks guys!

Sean

 

[Big Daddy]

Netural safety switch on transmission, or do they still use such a thing?

 

[Kirby]

I don't have a manual for the 5ers but there must be a relay that provides the power to the starter motor. See if you can locate such a relay and check it, or just re-seat all of the relays.

Also, does this car have some sort of security system that might cause this? Ya know how the radio needs a reset code after being removed or the battery is disconnected, I wonder if the security system has a similar issue?

 

[selavia]

Okay... Forgive my ignorance. What's a relay? Do you mean like a fuse? What am I looking for? Where approximately should I look? Engine bay? Interior side panels? Trunk?

I'll look into the security system thing as well.

 

[Kirby]

A relay is basically a remote electromagnetic switch. A low voltage/low current energizes a coil that acts as an electromagnet. The magnetic field closes electric contacts, energizing a different circuit. They are used to allow a tiny switch and wire (your ignition switch) turn on a large electrical load (the starter power).

Found this for ya:
The starter relay sits in a relay panel above the glove compartment. You have to remove the glove box and drop it down. The relay panel looks like this little white storage tray, and it has 4 relays in it - a tall black one in the back, and three short white ones in front. The starter relay is the short white one furthest to the left. FYI the relay panel also has 2 fuses on the side of it - one 50 amp and one 40 amp.

 

[selavia]

Success! Problem solved

Hey thanks guys! I really appreciated all your help and advice.

Kirby, you were right, it was something so simple. It was the key.

I called up the shop were I take my car if I can't do the work or no time. They are very good; best I've ever seen. (Autobahn of Towson. I highly recommend this shop to anyone in the area. )And I asked the guy what it could be. He gave me a list which listed everything that you said. His second suggestion was the relays.

FOR ANY ONE WITH THE SIMILAR PROBLEM. The relays on the E39 motors is underneath the Passenger side air vent located in the engine bay.

His first suggestion was try a different key. That was it. So now I need to get a new / key or reprogram this one. But I didn't have to do anything else. Here is the list he gave me, if anyone runs into a similar problem, hopefully this can help:

1. Try a different key
2. Check the fuses and relays underneath the passenger side air vent in the engine bay
3. Check the fuses and wires that sit above the battery
4. Check if power is running to alternator
5. Check if power is running to the starter
6. Change the battery
7. If a 1999 or newer e39, check the cable that runs from the battery to the starter / alternator. (He said that the newer e39s had a ___ (I forgot the term) type fo wire that, if the air bags were deployed, makes the wire leading from the battery to the starter 'explode / implode' to disable power to the vehicle.)


Again, thanks guys! Now I cannot wait for my suspension parts to come in. I ended up ordering from 4 or 5 different suppliers. Already got two packages.

And Dan, thanks for the heads up on Bav auto. They had some parts that I was going to get from the dealer b/c I couldn't find it online. THey had the parts, and $10 cheaper (per piece) then the dealer!

 

[Big Daddy]

Glad you got it and every thing works now. I would have not thought of the key!

 

[Doughnut]

Awsome suggestions from Kirby and the big Daddy!
Glad you got your car back up and running! Lol, i was going to suggest putting power straight to the starter solnoid.... *scary*
Peace.

 

[DaddyKuel]

Recently took my 530 to the dealer for service. they put the key into a 'reader' and it printed out my name, address, MILES ON THE ODOMETER, ANY LIGHTS OR CODES OPEN, OIL CHANGE LIGHTS LEFT ETC. I sure hope it can' tell who was riding in the car and what was going on in the last 3 months lol